Gitana was listed for sale yesterday on Yachtworld.
Sunday, October 21, 2018
Sunday, June 24, 2018
Veneeni 41LN49 Update
We decided to spend our second season on Long Island Sound, Block Island Sound, Narragansett and Buzzard's Bay. We did some major upgrades, including replacing both fuel tanks, a new suit of sails and upgraded electronics.We also learned the hard way where the name Stonington came from by encountering Catumb Rock while heading out through Lord's Passage!
First mate Anne Fogarty and I took Veneeni to Boston in mid-November, 20 degrees, sea smoke and freezing spray, where I lived aboard very comfortably all winter at the Constitution Marina along with friends on 125 other boats. The Webasto diesel heater system was great and essential. The insulation of the cabin and hull built into the Lord Nelson really paid off, as condensation was not an issue--for much of the winter, the Weeks and Plath Lantern in the saloon was enough heat to get by comfortably!
We are sailing Massachusetts Bay this season while we make final preparations to head South in October. We plan to head first to Annapolis and spend some time cruising the Chesapeake, the thinking about sailing to the Islands by way of Bermuda, probably in December. That said, the beauty of all this is that for the first time in my life, I will never again have to be anywhere for anyone else's schedule unless it is my choice. Cruising is a voyage, not an itinerary! We will keep everyone informed. We will happily receive emails at sailveneeni@gmail.com.
Thursday, May 25, 2017
Steve Olson is the New Owner of Jean Anne 35LN20
Just in from Steve:
I will be spending the next two years on a refit (although the boat is in very good shape), as I will be casting off from Seattle in 2019 for Mexico, the South Pacific, and possibly a circumnavigation (it would be the 2nd time around for this boat!). =)
Steve
I will be spending the next two years on a refit (although the boat is in very good shape), as I will be casting off from Seattle in 2019 for Mexico, the South Pacific, and possibly a circumnavigation (it would be the 2nd time around for this boat!). =)
Steve
Thursday, May 18, 2017
Seacock Replacement Lessons Learned
The following is a lightly edited email from Carl Miller, Saphria 35LN23.
Well, Saphira is back in her [Hawaii] mooring, about 30 miles each way to the yard. I did replace three thru hull fittings at this time. Total cost about $2000 counting the very expensive yard bill; 11 hrs labor charged. Based on the good condition of the thru-hull made the same way as the one that failed, I do not think the others in the boat require immediate replacement. But I will give you a rundown of each of the three since they each have a separate lesson learned.
I was unable to obtain either Groco or Perko fittings that have the built-in flange. The new fittings we installed with a 3/16” thick fiberglass backing plate, using 3M 4200 sealant inside and out.
1. This is the head discharge, the valve that broke. It is 1¼” valve fitting but connects to 1 ½” hose. (Disregard the plastic n=bilge hose). The shaft thatbturns the ball has rotted (dezincified) and the part that engages the ball had virtually disappeared.
Here are the guts to this valve. Note the slot in the ball where the shaft is supposed to engage. I wire brushed the ball, originally it was chrome plated but the plating was all gone, or covered by sealife crud—see separate photo. Even if the ball could have been turned the Teflon seals were chewed up by the roughness of the ball surface.
Somebody [John Mackie of John William 37VT68] mentioned these valves are not “full flow” --boy is that an understatement. Look at the reduction of the pipe size in the photo below—start with 1.25” ID pipe size (1.23 in2), then the nominal flow is a 1” diameter (.79 in2), then with the crud build-up in the ball which is pretty normal in a head discharge, the dia is .8” (.5 in2)— so the flow area of the valve is reduced by a third by the crud, and the nominal flow is already reduced by a third by the valve design. This doesn’t even consider the reduction from the 1½” ID of the pipe that is carrying the sewage. Use less toilet paper!
The hole in the hull was cut ¼” oversize for this valve, a mystery. The one above for ¾” thru hull (1” dia thread) is even more oversize. Here’s a photo of these holes and the hull thickness is clearly visible. I didn’t measure it but a safe estimate of the hull thickness here is 5/8”.
Hardest part to find was an elbow with 1½” hose and 1¼” pipe thread.
2. Now for the shower sump drain. This is a ¾” thru hull of the very same construction as the larger 1¼ valve described above. Since it was not damaged (note zero corrosion on the shaft) I was able to disassemble and see its interior design and condition. Happy to say that this valve could have stayed in the boat—it was on perfect condition except for the mineral buildup causing roughness on the ball. Plus there was a little slop in the handle which made it impossible to open the valve to full open as seen in the photos. Although the valve would still have worked, I am happy to have it replaced.
Here is how it works—the shaft has a square section on the end, this engages a slot in the ball and allows the turning motion. The shaft has a “head” which makes up to a Teflon seal inside the valve body; another teflon seal is on the outside under the spacer and handle, and the nut draws these to a seal. The ball is slipped into the valve body as the square section engages the slot. The valve interior has another Teflon seal both top and bottom of the ball; the top “nut” fitting makes up that seal, and has the pipe threads for the hose connection. No lubricating fittings. Electrical bonding was completed using a screw tapped into the valve body flange.
The toilet intake valve was also replaced. It seemed OK functionally, and it a more “modern” ball valve construction, but caution led to take it out and “look-see” It wasn’t any trouble to remove! Yikes only tree threads engaged the valve body to the thru hull. This was a result of the ¾” thru-hull threads being cut off too short; instead of a backing plate and a nut whoever installed this used a large brass washer and screwed the valve down to the washer and it is a wonder it held together. It is replaced with a conventional strainer thru-hull, with fiberglass backing plate and large bronze nut, and the new valve is threaded thereon.
In the photo you can see how little thread held this fitting into the boat—scary! Once again we found a problem BEFORE it happened at a bad time.
We could have reused this valve—it is perfectly functional-- but I will clean it up and keep it for a spare.
Pictures of completed installations coming on a few days.
Well, Saphira is back in her [Hawaii] mooring, about 30 miles each way to the yard. I did replace three thru hull fittings at this time. Total cost about $2000 counting the very expensive yard bill; 11 hrs labor charged. Based on the good condition of the thru-hull made the same way as the one that failed, I do not think the others in the boat require immediate replacement. But I will give you a rundown of each of the three since they each have a separate lesson learned.
I was unable to obtain either Groco or Perko fittings that have the built-in flange. The new fittings we installed with a 3/16” thick fiberglass backing plate, using 3M 4200 sealant inside and out.
1. This is the head discharge, the valve that broke. It is 1¼” valve fitting but connects to 1 ½” hose. (Disregard the plastic n=bilge hose). The shaft thatbturns the ball has rotted (dezincified) and the part that engages the ball had virtually disappeared.
Here are the guts to this valve. Note the slot in the ball where the shaft is supposed to engage. I wire brushed the ball, originally it was chrome plated but the plating was all gone, or covered by sealife crud—see separate photo. Even if the ball could have been turned the Teflon seals were chewed up by the roughness of the ball surface.
Somebody [John Mackie of John William 37VT68] mentioned these valves are not “full flow” --boy is that an understatement. Look at the reduction of the pipe size in the photo below—start with 1.25” ID pipe size (1.23 in2), then the nominal flow is a 1” diameter (.79 in2), then with the crud build-up in the ball which is pretty normal in a head discharge, the dia is .8” (.5 in2)— so the flow area of the valve is reduced by a third by the crud, and the nominal flow is already reduced by a third by the valve design. This doesn’t even consider the reduction from the 1½” ID of the pipe that is carrying the sewage. Use less toilet paper!
The hole in the hull was cut ¼” oversize for this valve, a mystery. The one above for ¾” thru hull (1” dia thread) is even more oversize. Here’s a photo of these holes and the hull thickness is clearly visible. I didn’t measure it but a safe estimate of the hull thickness here is 5/8”.
Hardest part to find was an elbow with 1½” hose and 1¼” pipe thread.
2. Now for the shower sump drain. This is a ¾” thru hull of the very same construction as the larger 1¼ valve described above. Since it was not damaged (note zero corrosion on the shaft) I was able to disassemble and see its interior design and condition. Happy to say that this valve could have stayed in the boat—it was on perfect condition except for the mineral buildup causing roughness on the ball. Plus there was a little slop in the handle which made it impossible to open the valve to full open as seen in the photos. Although the valve would still have worked, I am happy to have it replaced.
Here is how it works—the shaft has a square section on the end, this engages a slot in the ball and allows the turning motion. The shaft has a “head” which makes up to a Teflon seal inside the valve body; another teflon seal is on the outside under the spacer and handle, and the nut draws these to a seal. The ball is slipped into the valve body as the square section engages the slot. The valve interior has another Teflon seal both top and bottom of the ball; the top “nut” fitting makes up that seal, and has the pipe threads for the hose connection. No lubricating fittings. Electrical bonding was completed using a screw tapped into the valve body flange.
The toilet intake valve was also replaced. It seemed OK functionally, and it a more “modern” ball valve construction, but caution led to take it out and “look-see” It wasn’t any trouble to remove! Yikes only tree threads engaged the valve body to the thru hull. This was a result of the ¾” thru-hull threads being cut off too short; instead of a backing plate and a nut whoever installed this used a large brass washer and screwed the valve down to the washer and it is a wonder it held together. It is replaced with a conventional strainer thru-hull, with fiberglass backing plate and large bronze nut, and the new valve is threaded thereon.
In the photo you can see how little thread held this fitting into the boat—scary! Once again we found a problem BEFORE it happened at a bad time.
We could have reused this valve—it is perfectly functional-- but I will clean it up and keep it for a spare.
Pictures of completed installations coming on a few days.
Carl
Wednesday, April 26, 2017
More Detail on Bobstay Failure
This is the welded nut on the lower end. Failure occurred about ½ way inside the nut. Inspection would not have revealed an incipient problem. I suppose turning the nut would have broken the rod. The threads backed right out, no sign of stress near the threads.
Broken ends of the ¾” dia. stainless rod. Color is distorted by flash by crystalline structure is apparent.
No flash color here. Not much held the rod together! This failure was a long time in coming. The threads into the fitting are ugly but seemingly not affected by the fatigue.
The solid end fitting for the rod ends had no toggle, no way to dissipate sideways motion imparted by an anchor line rubbing on the stay, so there is no doubt fatigue caused the failure and water/salt corroded in the fatigue cracks. The top end fitting had no sign of stress.
The replacement was simple and inexpensive:
I hope this experience can keep somebody from the problem happening when it would lead to serious damage.
Carl Miller
Sunday, April 16, 2017
Exumas Cruising
Mike and Linda Wiens, Fairwind 41LN10, are cruising the Exumas. Read about their on going adventures.
Monday, April 10, 2017
Check Your Bobstay...
Just in from Carl Miller, Saphira 35LN23
In a fair breeze and a 110%genoa, the bottom end of our LN35 (1987) bobstay fractured. Since my local rigger said he had seen the EXACT failure in Hawaii on a 41 Lord Nelson, it makes me think there could be a design issue.
At one rod end, they drilled out a 3/4" nut, and WELDED it to the rod, so there is a hex to rotate the rod for tension adjustment. But the weld heat changes the metallurgy of the SST and with trapped salt under the nut, and some side flexing from the occasional anchor line rubbing, the fracture occurred inside the welded nut. The failure was clearly metal fatigue, and it was a long time coming. The fracture surfaces are crystalline looking, all dark and rusty across the fracture. Because the failure was occurring concealed behind that welded nut, there was nothing to inspect or a crack to see from the exterior. If you have a LN any size and the bobstay rod is OEM, please think about replacing it before something bad happens at a bad time.
In a fair breeze and a 110%genoa, the bottom end of our LN35 (1987) bobstay fractured. Since my local rigger said he had seen the EXACT failure in Hawaii on a 41 Lord Nelson, it makes me think there could be a design issue.
At one rod end, they drilled out a 3/4" nut, and WELDED it to the rod, so there is a hex to rotate the rod for tension adjustment. But the weld heat changes the metallurgy of the SST and with trapped salt under the nut, and some side flexing from the occasional anchor line rubbing, the fracture occurred inside the welded nut. The failure was clearly metal fatigue, and it was a long time coming. The fracture surfaces are crystalline looking, all dark and rusty across the fracture. Because the failure was occurring concealed behind that welded nut, there was nothing to inspect or a crack to see from the exterior. If you have a LN any size and the bobstay rod is OEM, please think about replacing it before something bad happens at a bad time.
Sunday, March 26, 2017
Peccatore 41LN29 For Sale
Hello!!
Here is Mauro, from Peccatore!
We are actually in Bonaire, heading to Puerto Rico, Virgin Islands, Turk and Caicos, Bahamas then Florida.
Unfortunately it's time to put Peccatore again on the market. If anyone around the Lord Nelson world is interested you can contact me on my e-mail peccatoreboat@gmail.com.
Below are some pics!
Thanks to everybody!
Tuesday, January 31, 2017
Ellida 41LN48's New Owners
I am happy to advise that my wife and I are now the proud owners of "Shadow" 41LN48 or as she now is "Ellida". She is now at the Newcastle Cruising Yacht Club marina [NSW, Australia], with a rebuilt bowsprit and a rigging upgrade. I will write more and send some photos when we have finished the renaming.
Kind Regards, Geoff Duce and Sidsel Grimstad
Thursday, April 14, 2016
Lightening Protection on Voodoo Child 41LN23
The following is from Tom Fish, tfish@mchsi.com
I wanted to share with you what I did for lightning protection on Voodoo Child. There are a lot of theories out there on the "best" protection setup. Some are very elaborate and expensive (and awkward and ugly) with still no guarantees. Others are more simple DIY methods. I have not read everything out there on the subject. But from what I've read, it seems most sensible in my situation to at least create the straightest possible low resistance electrical path from the top of the mast to seawater. I gave up on the idea of being able to protect built in electronic devices by turning the entire vessel into a giant "Faraday cage". The electronics are too sensitive and lightning is too powerful and unpredictable. My main concern was to direct the brunt of the charge down to seawater expeditiously and hopefully not via the thru hulls which could potentially blow out and sink the boat.
From the masthead to the deck, the best conductor is obviously the aluminum mast itself. Unlike many boats with exposed bolt-on keels, the Lord Nelson has an encapsulated keel. In this situation the consensus seems to be that the base of the mast should be wired directly to a copper plate outside the hull rather than to the encapsulated keel. It was recommended that the minimum size of the copper plate should be one square foot (more in fresh water) and have a large amount of edges which help dissipate the charge into seawater. It was also recommended to use at least number 4 wire to connect the mast base to the grounding plate with no sharp turns in the wire.
I had my copper plate fabricated by a machinist out of 3/4" thick copper bar. It was 4" wide by 36" long (1 square foot). I had several grooves cut into it lengthwise to create more edges. The ends were tapered to make it more aerodynamic. Four countersunk holes were drilled along its length allowing bronze bolts to attach it to the hull. The un-grooved side facing the hull has a 1/2" threaded dead-end hole cut into it. I had threads cut into a 1/2" copper rod and used that as a stud which screws into the dead end hole in the plate. The other end of the copper stud penetrates the hull (near the mast) and has the ground wire clamped to it. The reason I used a separate threaded copper stud for the ground wire is because it's electrical conductivity is higher than the bronze bolts holding the plate to the hull.
I wanted to share with you what I did for lightning protection on Voodoo Child. There are a lot of theories out there on the "best" protection setup. Some are very elaborate and expensive (and awkward and ugly) with still no guarantees. Others are more simple DIY methods. I have not read everything out there on the subject. But from what I've read, it seems most sensible in my situation to at least create the straightest possible low resistance electrical path from the top of the mast to seawater. I gave up on the idea of being able to protect built in electronic devices by turning the entire vessel into a giant "Faraday cage". The electronics are too sensitive and lightning is too powerful and unpredictable. My main concern was to direct the brunt of the charge down to seawater expeditiously and hopefully not via the thru hulls which could potentially blow out and sink the boat.
From the masthead to the deck, the best conductor is obviously the aluminum mast itself. Unlike many boats with exposed bolt-on keels, the Lord Nelson has an encapsulated keel. In this situation the consensus seems to be that the base of the mast should be wired directly to a copper plate outside the hull rather than to the encapsulated keel. It was recommended that the minimum size of the copper plate should be one square foot (more in fresh water) and have a large amount of edges which help dissipate the charge into seawater. It was also recommended to use at least number 4 wire to connect the mast base to the grounding plate with no sharp turns in the wire.
I had my copper plate fabricated by a machinist out of 3/4" thick copper bar. It was 4" wide by 36" long (1 square foot). I had several grooves cut into it lengthwise to create more edges. The ends were tapered to make it more aerodynamic. Four countersunk holes were drilled along its length allowing bronze bolts to attach it to the hull. The un-grooved side facing the hull has a 1/2" threaded dead-end hole cut into it. I had threads cut into a 1/2" copper rod and used that as a stud which screws into the dead end hole in the plate. The other end of the copper stud penetrates the hull (near the mast) and has the ground wire clamped to it. The reason I used a separate threaded copper stud for the ground wire is because it's electrical conductivity is higher than the bronze bolts holding the plate to the hull.
The number 4 grounding wire starts at the copper stud in the bilge within inches of the mast support pedestal. With very little bend, it traverses upward through the compression post, mast deck plate and mast. It terminates about a foot up the mast where it bolts directly to the interior surface of the mast on the aft side beneath the wire cover plate. I have a small plugged hole in the cover plate at that location for future inspections for corrosion at the connection.
Spring Moon 41LN22
Thanks, Dave Howell
LNOA.org@gmail.com
Friday, December 4, 2015
Where is he now? A Tommy Chen Update...
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| Tommy Chen, 2006 |
He spent part of this past summer working on his Lord Nelson 41LN55 (eponymously named Lord Nelson). With her he plans to attend August's LN Victory Tug Rendezvous in the San Juan Islands.
In December Tommy plans to go on a tour of Shanghai. Tommy has been touring China regularly for the past three years. Also while in China he visits a friend from his boat building days who lives in Shamin. Tommy plans to return to Canada in March.
Thursday, November 5, 2015
Welcome Aboard New Owner Greg Koski, Veneeni 41LN49
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| Veneeni 41LN49 (Fall 2015) |
I have renamed her "Veneeni" in keeping with my Finnish ancestry. She hails from South Bristol, Maine and is currently wintering-over on the hard at the Gamage Shipyard. I plan to do some coastal sailing over the next 18 months while I get to know her well before undertaking a more ambitious Atlantic circuit.
Bob took care of the boat well...her brightwork is in great shape, and she needs some cosmetic work on her topsides, some new bottom paint, and some work on the teak in the cockpit. The rest of the deck teak was replaced and set in epoxy and it looks terrific.
I am thrilled to have Veneeni and look forward to sharing our various adventures. Greg
Sunday, October 18, 2015
Update from Wysteria 41LN04
The following was in an email from Judy Martin, 18 October 2016:
After having her surveyed in Kemah, TX, Mark and a couple of his buddies sailed her across the Gulf of Mexico to St. Augustine, FL. Had a few problems but nothing major. From St. Augustine we had had her trucked to Toledo Beach Marina in LaSalle, MI. This marina is about 10 minutes away from home. Once there we went to work deep cleaning and repairing numerous water leaks, mostly around the portholes. Also stripped the flaking varnish from the cockpit.Will clean and caulk the teak deck next year. Looks much better. The weather has turned colder so we have her on the hard waiting for the shrink wrap. That about sums it up for this year. Can't wait for spring to get started again.
Saturday, September 26, 2015
Welcome Aboard New Owners Judith Martin and Mark Roberts, Wysteria 41LN04
The following is from a 26 September email from Judith Martin:
Wysteria has an interesting pedigree. According to her hull number (XSA004041081), specifically the prefix (XSA), she's a Hans Christian! Actually, Tommy Chen, who owned the Hai-O yard that built the boat, was concurrently building Hans Christian 38 Mark IIs. Wysteria being among the first, if not the first Lord Nelson 41, was simply given the same identifier (XSA) as the Hans Christians. It wasn't until 41LN11 that things were sorted out and the Lord Nelsons started carrying an HAO (for Hai-O--which means seagull in Mandarin) prefix. The prefix changed again, from HAO to OEY, in the summer of 1984 when Hai-O was closed down in favor of the new and larger Ocean Eagle yard .
I would like to join the LN41 owners forum. Mark Roberts and I have recently purchased the Wysteria hull #4 from a broker in Kemah, TX. We are located in Monroe, MI and plan to sail around the Great Lakes area, mostly Lake Erie for now. Wysteria needs some work done first. Just hauled out for the season and am looking forward to next summer.
Wysteria has an interesting pedigree. According to her hull number (XSA004041081), specifically the prefix (XSA), she's a Hans Christian! Actually, Tommy Chen, who owned the Hai-O yard that built the boat, was concurrently building Hans Christian 38 Mark IIs. Wysteria being among the first, if not the first Lord Nelson 41, was simply given the same identifier (XSA) as the Hans Christians. It wasn't until 41LN11 that things were sorted out and the Lord Nelsons started carrying an HAO (for Hai-O--which means seagull in Mandarin) prefix. The prefix changed again, from HAO to OEY, in the summer of 1984 when Hai-O was closed down in favor of the new and larger Ocean Eagle yard .
Friday, September 18, 2015
LN Spotting: Le Garage 41LN49
Thursday, September 17, 2015
Embla's Atlantic Crossing
Embla arrived in the Chesapeake Bay the end of July, after an uneventful Atlantic crossing via Tenerife, St. Marten, Nassau, then up the east coast offshore to the Chesapeake Bay and Annapolis.
Friday, September 4, 2015
Seagull 41--The Design that led to the 41LN
Last month Tommy Chen showed me his original, vellum Lord Nelson 41 and 35 drawings. What became the Lord Nelson 41 Tommy originally called the Seagull 41. It's interesting to note that he drew these plans before starting his own yard. It's also interesting that the name of his first yard, Hai O, means seagull in Mandarin.
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| Tommy Chen, holding the 41 blueprints and the original sales brochure. Photo taken aboard Polar Mist, a 49' Lord Nelson Victory Tug. Tommy is even wearing a Victory Tug hat. Ask him though and he'll tell you his first love is the sailboat. |
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| The Seagull 41 hull lines. |
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| The signature block on the drawing. |
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| Close-up of the hull lines. |
When Plan B Becomes Plan A
Sunday, July 26, 2015
Video: Newport to Bermuda on a LN41
Offshore to the Caribbean - Part 1
Newport to Bermuda
https://vimeo.com/123436315
Offshore to the Caribbean - Part 3
Bermuda to the BVI
https://vimeo.com/125105501
David can be reached at:
David Lyman
Voyaging Photojournalist
SeaArcher LLC
73 Mountain Street
Camden, ME 04843
207.841.4139
DHLyman@mac.com
www.DHLyman.com
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